Edinburgh

Edinburgh Castle is perhaps the visual epitome of the Scottish motto "no one provokes me with impunity."  Look at that cliff face!  Can you imagine getting an invading force up that?  It's built on an extinct volcano which some say looks like the back of a sleeping dragon.  For all that, it's managed to switch back and forth between English and Scottish possession for the better part of the last 1000 years.  Prior to that, it had been a stronghold of assorted tribes and clans since at least the early Iron Age and perhaps since the late Bronze Age.  In short, it's likely that someone has wanted to be king of this mountain for the last 2500 years.  It's currently occupied by the British Army who actually do maintain some offices and residences.  St Margret's Chapel is also still in regular use.  In fact, it was closed for a Christening while we visited.  It's the oldest building in Edinburgh, built by King David in the 1100s.

Edinburgh Castle was especially important to visit as I have quite a bit of Bruce in my background.  While that hunk of the family has never done much in the way of genealogies, we like to assume that we simply must be worthy of the Bruce coat of arms.

We missed it as it was a Sunday but they fire the cannons most days at 1300 hours.  This acted as a communal timepiece much in the same way church bells might starting in 1861.  The original plan had been the time ball on the top of the Nelson Monument but the rather perpetual fog, mist, and generally poor visibility inhibit the efficacy of a visual time marker.  

The highlight for the children was seeing the Honours of the Kingdom.  The children were breathless with anticipation to see the "crown of gold."  We also saw the scepter, sword, and the Stone of Scone (fascinating article about the stone here, if not completely factual).  The Stone of Scone has been lugged about the Scottish and English countryside a bit.  The English insisted on it being put into their coronation ceremony around 1300 when they annexed Scotland and, so, if you look at the throne, there is a slot for the stone to be slipped under the cushion.  The stone finally made it's official way back to Scotland in 1996 with the understanding that it would be returned for future crownings.

J. K. Rowling wrote most of the Harry Potter books in and around Edinburgh.  The release of the 6th book, Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince (where Ginny and Harry FINALLY get together, hem, hem) took place at Edinburgh Castle.  I can't think of a better location.  There is no doubt as to how you could be inspired to create Hogwarts, Diagon Alley and all the rest.

I would have really liked to have visited Edinburgh longer but our budget didn't stretch to multiple nights at the Astoria.  It has a wealth of museums as well as all manner of interesting architecture and nooks and crannies to explore.

Trim Castle

We visited Trim Castle today in a very Irish drizzle to shower.  The children took it in turns to express their lack of team spirit so I missed a good bit of both what the tour guide was saying and reading the placards.  Since this is a far from rare occurrence, we've started springing for the 50 cent visitor's guides put out by the Office of Public works.  We can then later find out what it is that we saw and wholeheartedly endorse this strategy if you find yourself touristing with children.

The thing that keeps knocking me in the face is the saying about how "100 years is old to an American and 100 miles is far to an Englishman."  This church from the 1700s (I think) would be considered highly historic in an American town.

These shops are built on the doorstep of a 11th century castle.

I saw cross country practice next to the ruins of a medieval Abbey.

N R 1771

This graffiti from inside the keep is older than the Constitution and was written AFTER the castle was re-built 3 (or maybe 4) times, hosted 15th century Parliaments, and was abandoned to Cromwell's army in 1649.

Cambell 1743

Obviously, the best part of a castle is jumping on the drainage grate.

While touring, the big kids lead the way...

while Noah brings up the rear.

We had to wait for about 30 minutes, huddled under the trim gate which used to be where they pulled up the drawbridge, for the official tour of The Keep to begin.  Megan and I decided to venture out and I couldn't help but imagine what an incredible backdrop the ruins of the Barbican Gate would be for a small wedding.  I keep being surprised we don't see more bridal photo shoots at all these picturesque castle ruins but I suppose I can understand why outdoor shoots are rather rare in Ireland.


I did get to listen to the tour in the chapel.  These were 2 openings to keep the holy water.  After it was used, there were drains that made their way to the outside of the castle walls where they then drained down the walls to return to the earth- the only acceptable disposal of holy water.  Interestingly, the clergy would accompany their lords in battle.  However, they were not allowed to draw blood.  So, they were only allowed to use clubs and maces.  Inflicting death via concussion was apparently fine according to the powers that be.

Carrickfergus Castle

Photo from Wikipedia

The last day we were in Belfast we had a few hours before we needed to catch the train home.  We are always up for a castle and Carrickfergus was quite near.  My understanding of the history of this area is a bit muddled, US history is so straightforward in comparison, but I'm working on it.  I believe Carrickfergus is one of the oldest if not the oldest castle standing in Ulster (roughly Northern Ireland).  It tended to be fairly well kept since it was often the main foothold of the Normans and English on this rather hotly contested island.

The Keep from Allen's flickr stream

The Keep (the center part of the castle, most heavily fortified and likely where the family lived) was the first part of the castle build by John de Courcy around 1177.  He was a bit of a wildcard taking on the invasion of Ulster without King Henry II's permission.  He then married Affreca around 1180.  She was a princess from the Isle of Mann.  There is a modern statue of Princess Affreca in the window of the inner ward (the wall around the courtyard) "looking off towards her home." (or something to that effect, I wasn't actually taking notes)  I really felt for Affreca.  She was married off to a man she may or may not have even met before, let alone loved.  She was then shipped off to Ulster and while the Isle of Mann isn't really all that far away, I imagine she didn't make it home often if at all.  She never bore any children.  She was likely blamed for that and felt a great deal of guilt about it.  We were there on a sunny, summer day and it was still quite chilly.  There is a strong wind off the sea and the surrounding area is arable but rocky with low mountains all about.  The Castle is built on the very edge of the sea on a rocky shore.  Her husband was the invading force so I can't imagine the locals gave her all that warm a welcome and the castle was new and likely needed rather a great deal of work, from her point of view.  I suspect that Knights, Kings, and Barons leaned towards making things secure (understandably) rather than "warm and homey."  It sort of reminded me of some of Lynn Kurland's books.  She wrote some pretty solid epic medieval historical romances.  They move a little slowly but are nice to read if you find yourself in a rocking chair for 4-6 hours a day with a rather irritable baby.

Chapel behind plexiglass so there is a glare

The other part of the castle that I just found fascinating was the chapel.  It was built around 1250.  The idea that something both so lovely and so old was just striking.  I am sure that it was used for all manner of less than holy purposes (a murder hole is just off to the other side and, later, gunports were added).  But, there was also this wonderful sense that the sun had shone in the same way, through those same stones, on holy promises we still make today in the forms of baptisms and weddings and maybe even a knighting or two.  Vows were spoken, prayers said, hopes were laid and candles were lit for almost a 1000 years, right where I was standing.  Rather appropriately, this is the only carved stonework remaining in situ in the entire castle.

Powerscourt Gardens

This weekend found us trekking to Powerscourt Gardens.  It's a lovely estate about an hour away from Dublin by bus.  I have to say that after taking in this view, I could see the allure of marrying a man 50 years your senior.  A castle/house/fortified estate has existed here since the 13th century (thank you wikipedia).  (I'm sorry about the quality of the pictures.  It was, gasp, actually unearth your sunglasses SUNNY and I think my iphone has forgotten how to cope.)

View from "back porch"

Flowers in fireplace
Does anyone know what the pink one is?

Charlie and Shadow Shout

After having a super yummy lunch (those Avoca ladies sure can cook!), we started wandering the gardens.  Charlie got adorably interested in his shadow at the bottom of a fountain asking "Shadow Shout, how did you get all the way down there?"  Charlie has been all about shadows lately and has gotten the other 2 interested as well.  

Looking for frogs

After a quick inspection to be sure that there weren't any frogs, we moved along to flowers.  My favorite type of garden is the cottage type where there is just this riot of color.

A formal cottage garden ;-)

Then we came to this fabulous cluster of lily pads- sadly, no toads here, either.

On the way to the Japanese Garden, we got to go through this wonderful rocky passage filled with very Irish looking moss and greenery.

Next up was this little waterfall that had Noah completely fascinated.

Noah

Charlie isn't a nature boy precisely.  He's sort of the classic "boy."  He loves rockets and space ships and learning about all things mechanical and then he also loves to climb trees, pick up worms, and examine snails.  So, of course, the stream was for him.

Charlie

The path wound it's way through some forested area.  Whenever I'm confronted with older growth forest, I always wonder about the American colonists.  Can you imagine getting off a ship and knowing you had to get crops planted Very Soon and were confronted with this:

biggish trees

As you went along the path you came along to this wonderfully romantic looking tower.  Sadly, all things that glimmer are not gold.  The tower is fairly modern, built in 1911 (I think- google wasn't very helpful) and modeled on a pepperpot from the 8th Viscount's dining table.  It's still fun to let your imagination roam with the image, though.  Doesn't it seem to just be screaming out for some sort of dashing adventure ala The Princess Bride?

Pepperpot Tower

And, perhaps my favorite picture of the day:

Dublin Castle and Dubh Linn Gardens

This weekend we went on a tour of Dublin Castle and visited the Dubh Linn Gardens.

First, of course, came a yummy snack.  On the tables, they had these lovely jars of sugar lumps and, by now, we all know of my fascination with sugar lumps!

Noah obviously made our guide a bit nervous- I could practically see visions of asking us to remove Noah from the draperies, couches, and other antiques running through her head.  But, the children all did quite well.  I spent rather a lot of time looking out windows commenting on waving flags, clouds, and passing tourists but I did get the gist of things.  (you weren't allowed to take pictures inside the castle)

Noah checking his shadow is keeping up

Daniel O'Connell was nursed back to health in the castle before being put to death (it was illegal to execute an injured or ill person).  So, they had a display of pictures of the 16 men who were executed for their part in instigating the Easter Rebellion.  Some of those men were so very young!

Megan and Noah about to hug 

even though it may look otherwise

In lighter news, we also got to see the room the girls would wait in before being presented to the nobility.  They had special angled mirrors under the benches so that the girls could check that their ankles and petticoats were hidden.  There was also a special needlework screen mounted on a pole that the girls could use to protect their faces from the warmth of the fire.  Makeup was waxed based so if their faces got too warm they would quite literally lose face.

Charlie

We then made our way down to the excavation area where you see the moat and back entrance to the castle.  Noah was very impressed with the great many rocks.

The children were delighted to have a bit of running around time on the Dubh Linn Gardens.  The name means dark pool.  The Gardens (really just the one garden) were built on top of the pool as it filled in over time.  The Vikings used it to hold their boats as it was easily reachable via the Liffey.  The pronunciation evolved into Dublin and provided the name for the city.

The Dubh Linn Gardens are right next to a large Garda station and the Castle is still used for official functions.  They are currently doing some updating so that they can host the EU Parliment starting in January.  So, of course they need a helipad and guess where it is...

picture source google earth

The tour guide said that there are 6 readily discernible landing sites within the traditional Celtic design.